Symbol of Jewish heritage has become a main stop on the tourist circuit

RECIFE - Flanked by bustling cafes in downtown Recife on Brazil’s northeastern coast is a little-known treasure of Jewish history in the New World — the oldest synagogue in the Americas.

Sephardic Jews built the two-story Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue before 1641 — most likely in 1636 — when they enjoyed religious freedom under the Dutch, who ruled part of the northeast region from 1630 to 1654 to control sugar production.

The Mikve Israel Congregation in Curacao, a Dutch Antilles island in the Caribbean, was considered by some to have been the first congregation in the Americas. But it was founded only in 1651, also by Sephardic Jews from Holland.

In the world’s largest Catholic nation, whose best known icon is the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, the Recife synagogue became an important symbol of the Jewish heritage in Brazil.

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It was winter in Brazil when we arrived there in August for a two week concert tour. But, unlike where we live in central New Jersey, winter in Brazil means mid-70s that are warm and comfortable. Fruits abound, the beaches sparkle and the people are friendly and inviting. In fact, we were treated like rock stars everywhere we went.

It is unusual to find teenagers in choirs singing music from the western canon in Brazil. Instead, the choral tradition is rich in folk music of many different types as well as MPB – Musica Popular Brasileira (Brazilian popular music). They sing mostly a cappella, and without a conductor. For them, singing is part of who they are. They don’t worry so much about the issues that consume our choir rehearsals. They sing to have fun and to enjoy the camaraderie and spirit of the music.

So, when I brought 30 high school students to sing the Haydn Creation in Rio de Janeiro Brasil, it was an event. We sang two performances. The first was in the Candelaria Cathedral, one of the most inspiring sacred spaces we had ever seen or been in. The second was in Sala Cecilia Meireles, the main concert hall in the city. Singing with us was a choir from a parochial high school, who were singing “serious art music” for the very first time. Accompanying us were the talented men and women of the orchestra at the University of Rio de Janeiro (UniRio) and their conductor, Guilherme Bernstein Seixas. Concerts were packed with folks standing everywhere there was space. Shouts of “Bravo” and “Encore” rang out at the end each time.

In addition to the Haydn, we sang concerts of diverse repertoire at the largest synagogue in Rio and at the Baptist Seminary and Livaria Cultura (Brazil’s Barnes and Noble) in Recife. Recife is in the northeast part of the country along the water and was a major port for slave trade at one time. As a result, there is a strong Afro-Brazilian heritage there, which includes a culture that is rich in native rhythms, crafts and high energy.

Food in Brazil is sumptuous—even the goat meat and chicken hearts which are considered a delicacy. We had traditional Brazilian barbeque called “churrasco.” The portions are generous and the desserts are beyond description. We had fruits we never saw at home and enjoyed Guarana – the Brazilian equivalent of Coca Cola. (In fact, some of it is bottled by Coke). We visited monasteries, open air markets and of course, the beaches. Buzius, about 2 hours from Rio was magnificent. We spent the day on a catamaran swimming, sailing and enjoying the spectacular views. We also ate in the Grotto de LeBlon and sat at the table where Tom Jobim looked out the window, saw the woman and composed, “The Girl from Ipanema.” It was awesome.

Plans are never cast in stone in Brazil. Since so much of the lure is the nature, we took advantage of good weather to do the outdoor events and the few times we had light rain, to shop indoors. One rainy day, we had a samba lesson. Students were on the beach as often as they could.

My students will tell you that our tour was a life changing experience. As singers, they felt valued and appreciated. As human beings they were enriched by a warm and generous culture and friendly people whose hospitality knew no bounds.

Folks worry about safety in Brazil. There are frequent stories of crime and violence in the big cities. And, I suppose one could see that in any urban area at home as well. But, we never saw that side of Brazil. The staff at Music Celebrations International, and our contacts in South America planned a tour where we all stayed together and where we would be safe. Our Rio hotel, a few blocks from the famous Copacabana beach had wonderful security and we were well-chaperoned.

Now that school is back in session, the first question the students asked was “When will we go back?” The fact is, we could be packed and ready in an hour.

Dr. Frank Abrahams
Rider University, Westminster Conservatory

The Singing Statesmen, under the direction of Gary R. Schwartzhoff, recently returned from a Music Celebrations International concert tour of Brazil. We think this is one of the best performance pictures we’ve ever seen!

Gary Schwartzhoff, Director of Choral Activities at the University of Wisconsin in Eau Claire, recently had this to say about his choir’s tour to Brazil in December:

In December 2005, the ensemble toured Rio di Janeiro for ten days with Music Celebrations International. For The Statesmen, I was looking for a new experience in international travel and Rio fit the bill! The weather in December was wonderful, the food was the best on any international tour I have ever taken, and the concert going public was a joy to perform for. Before the ensemble finished most works, the audience was on their feet in applause.